5 things every dog owner should know about mats

Matting is one of the most common, and most misunderstood, coat problems we see. Here's what's actually happening, and why we handle it the way we do.

1. Dematting hurts, even when done as gently as possible

A mat is not just a tangle. It's a dense, compacted knot of hair that has bound together over time, often pulling the skin with it. When a groomer works through a mat, even using the correct tools and maximum care, the process involves tension on the skin and hair follicles that can be genuinely uncomfortable for the dog. There is no technique that makes dematting gentle. The gentler the approach, the longer it takes, which brings us to the next point.

2. It's stressful for your dog for two reasons

The discomfort of dematting is one issue. The time it requires is another. A heavily matted dog may need to spend significantly longer on the grooming table than a well-maintained coat would require. For dogs that already find grooming stressful, and many do, particularly if their early experiences were negative, extended sessions compound that stress considerably.

At Wag, where we prioritise low-stress, unhurried grooming, heavy matting creates a genuine conflict: taking the time to demat carefully is still a longer, more uncomfortable experience than a dog with a healthy coat would have.

3. Even gentle dematting can damage the skin

The sustained tension required to work through mats can cause micro-abrasions, inflammation, and in more severe cases, bruising of the skin underneath. This is not a reflection of technique, it's a physical consequence of what a mat does to the tissue beneath it. In dogs with sensitive skin, or in areas where the skin is already irritated, the risk is higher. This is one of the reasons why, in cases of severe matting, shaving under the mats is not a punishment or a shortcut — it's the kindest option available.

4. Matted hair can't be properly cleaned or dried

A mat acts as a physical barrier. Shampoo cannot fully penetrate it, which means the skin and hair beneath are never truly cleaned during a bath. More critically, moisture becomes trapped inside the mat after washing, and trapped moisture against the skin is a direct risk factor for hot spots, fungal infections, and bacterial dermatitis.

A mat that looks dry on the outside can remain damp against the skin for hours or even days, particularly in dense-coated breeds. This is why bathing a severely matted coat without addressing the mats first is not a viable option.

5. Mats can cause (and hide) wounds and infections

This is the most serious consequence, and the one most owners don't see coming. The warm, damp environment inside a mat is ideal for bacterial and fungal growth. Mats that sit close to the skin can cause pressure sores and abrasions simply through friction and weight. And because mats are opaque and tightly compacted, they can conceal wounds, parasites, and active skin infections that go undetected, sometimes for weeks. We have found all of these things hidden under mats that looked, from the outside, like nothing more than a fluffy but neglected coat.

Why we sometimes have to shave under the mats

When a coat is matted below the surface, which is common in curly and wavy-coated breeds where the outer coat can look relatively intact while the undercoat is fully pelted, the only responsible option is to clip beneath the mat line. This is not a cosmetic decision. It is a welfare decision. The coat will grow back. The priority is getting the skin clean, dry, and healthy as quickly as possible.

A note on cutting mats with scissors at home

This deserves its own mention because it's one of the most common, and most dangerous, things owners attempt at home with the best intentions.

The problem is anatomical. When a mat forms close to the skin, it pulls the skin upward with it, creating a fold or tent of skin directly beneath the mat. From the outside, it looks like there's space between the mat and the body. There isn't. Inserting scissors into a mat to cut it away is one of the leading causes of serious accidental lacerations in dogs, we have seen the results, and they are often severe enough to require veterinary attention.

Scissors should never be inserted into a mat. If a mat is too tight to brush out, the correct tool is a seam ripper or a dedicated mat splitter, used to divide the mat into smaller sections from the outside in — never cutting toward the skin. Even then, if you're unsure, the safest choice is always a professional assessment first.

how to prevent mats

The most effective prevention is a consistent combination of regular brushing at home and professional grooming on an appropriate schedule. For curly and wavy-coated breeds, brushing at least two to three times per week, using a slicker brush followed by a metal comb to check all the way to the skin, is the minimum to maintain a mat-free coat between appointments. Pay particular attention to friction points: behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits, and behind the legs, where mats form fastest.

Professional grooming every four to eight weeks, depending on coat type and length, ensures that any early-stage matting is caught before it becomes a welfare issue, and that the coat is properly washed, dried, and maintained throughout.

At Wag, we assess every coat on arrival and will always discuss the best approach with you before we start. If your dog's coat needs more attention than usual, we'll tell you and we'll work together on a plan to get it back to a healthy baseline.

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frequently asked questions

• Can mats be brushed out at home?

  Early-stage tangles can often be worked through at home with the right tools — a detangling spray, a slicker brush, and a metal comb used gently from the ends inward. However, true mats — compacted knots that don't move when you try to brush them — should be assessed by a professional. Attempting to force a brush through a mat at home can cause significant pain and skin damage.

• My dog's coat looks fine on top. Could it still be matted?

  Yes, and this is very common in curly and wavy-coated breeds. The outer coat can appear relatively intact while the undercoat is fully compacted against the skin. The best way to check is to part the coat and use a metal comb all the way to the skin. If the comb meets resistance before reaching the skin, there is matting underneath.

• Will the coat grow back after being shaved for mats?

  In most cases, yes, and it will grow back healthier, since the skin has had a chance to breathe and recover. The timeline varies by breed and individual dog, but most coats return to a normal length within a few months with regular grooming.

• How do I know if my dog is in pain from matting?

  Signs can include flinching or pulling away when touched in certain areas, excessive scratching or licking at specific spots, reluctance to be groomed, and behavioural changes around handling. If your dog is showing any of these signs, a professional assessment is recommended sooner rather than later.

• How often should I brush my dog to prevent mats?

  For curly and wavy-coated breeds, at least two to three times per week is the standard recommendation. Straight and short-coated breeds are generally lower maintenance, but all dogs benefit from regular brushing for coat health and skin stimulation. Your groomer can give specific guidance based on your dog's coat type.