how to brush a curly coated dog: technique, tools, and products

Brushing a curly coat is one of those things that looks straightforward but is easy to get wrong — and getting it wrong means mats, even if the coat looks fine on the surface. Here's exactly how to do it properly.

Why technique matters more than frequency

Most owners who brush their dogs regularly are still surprised when their groomer finds mats. The reason is almost always technique, not effort. A brush that only moves through the top layer of the coat looks like it's working — the coat gets fluffier, it looks neat — but it's not reaching the undercoat where mats actually form.

For curly coated breeds — Poodles, Portuguese Water Dogs, Lagottos, and similar — the coat grows in tight spirals that naturally compress against each other and against the skin. Without proper technique, the surface can look perfectly groomed while the undercoat is fully compacted underneath.

The tools you need

You only need three things:

A detangling or leave-in conditioner to be applied before brushing. This gives the hair shaft enough slip to move through without breaking. We use and recommend Artero products professionally at Wag — their conditioning range is formulated specifically for dense, curly coats and makes a noticeable difference to how the brush moves through the coat.

A slicker brush — the main tool for working through the coat section by section. Look for one with fine, closely spaced pins and a cushioned base that has some flex in it. A rigid slicker drags rather than glides.

A metal comb — the most important tool for checking your work. If the comb moves freely from skin to tip with no resistance, the coat is genuinely mat-free. If it catches anywhere, there is compaction forming that the slicker brush missed.

Do not skip the comb. It is the only reliable way to confirm the coat is actually clear.

The technique

Watch the video below for a full demonstration — the key steps are:

Apply conditioner to the section you're working on before you start brushing. Don't brush a dry curly coat — it causes breakage and static, and the brush won't move through cleanly.

Part the coat and work in sections, starting close to the skin and brushing outward. Don't start from the top and drag downward — this compresses any tangles rather than releasing them. Work from the root out, in the direction of hair growth.

After each section, run the metal comb through from skin to tip. This is your quality check. If the comb moves freely, move to the next section. If it catches, work through it with the brush before moving on.

Pay particular attention to friction points — behind the ears, under the collar, in the armpits, behind the legs, and around the groin. These are the areas where mats form first and fastest, and they're the easiest to miss.

How often should you do this?

For a curly coated dog, at least two to three times per week is the minimum to maintain a mat-free coat between professional appointments. If your dog gets wet regularly — swimming, rain, muddy walks — brush as soon as the coat is dry, not before. Brushing a wet curly coat can stretch and break the hair shaft.

If you're brushing consistently with the right technique and your dog is still developing mats, it may be a sign that the professional grooming interval needs to be shorter, or that the coat length needs to come down to something more manageable. Your groomer can help you work out the right balance.

A note on home brushing between grooms

Home brushing is not a replacement for professional grooming — it's what makes professional grooming easier, less stressful for your dog, and less frequent. A dog that arrives at the groomer mat-free needs a shorter appointment, which means less time on the table and a better experience overall. It's worth the investment of ten minutes a few times a week.

At Wag, we're always happy to show you technique in person at your appointment — just ask.